Around the World 1963

Preamble.  The following journal is the result of combining the text of my letters home while traveling and the entries I made in three sporadic journals, 56 years ago.

When I arrived back in Washington State in January, 1964 I was substantially in debt for the first time in my life. I owed several hundred dollars on a student loan I had taken out my last year at the U of W. and $500 to two wonderful friends who sent me cash for pocket money after I had found a way to buy , on credit, an Air France ticket from Tel Aviv, Israel to Seattle, WA.. Air France gave me six months to finish the trip and allowed me as many stops as I wanted to make on the way, as long as I did not double back.

Leaving England after not getting married, I hitch hiked to Israel with no idea of, or forethought about how or when  I would get home to Oak Harbor, WA from Israel.

Here is the travelogue finally,  56 yrs after the trip.

Trip 2 1963   [During 1962 Gwen, my girlfriend from England came to the US and spent a few weeks traveling with me and meeting my family. After that we got engaged by mail to be married on September 1, 1963. After graduating from the U of W, I packed a trunk and shipped it to England.]

August 12, 1963,. I arrived in England by air at 6:40 AM and by 3 PM, Gwen and I had agreed to call the wedding off. I wrote in my journal “I am once again a free man”.  JE

August 15, 1963. Staying the week at Alex’s. Paying 5 pounds ($14) for seven nights bed and breakfast. Fair bed but no central heat. Shared a large room with Ron. Breakfast generally consists of tea with breakfast, a fried egg, fried Canadian bacon, fried liver – one small piece., fried tomato – two small halves, fried bread – two slices, and sometimes fried sausage. There was very little variety. (I don’t recall who Alex or Ron were. It was probably somebody Gwen’s family, the Hewitts, referred me to.

I took the majority of meals at Hewitt’s. It was very good food, more of the German style than English.  JE

August 16, 1963: letter home. Dear mom: well, all is well here. I haven’t got any exciting news to speak of. I am still staying with Gwen’s family. I am sticking around for this weekend to meet her brother. I also don’t want to be too far away when the Tissos get to England. I want to at least see them while they are here.

As I said, no news. I am probably getting fat but when I leave here I will quit eating so well and often. I bought a pair of dress shoes today. Leather goods and wool goods (suits) are about the best buys in England. I’ll quit now. Love Leroy

  1. S. I hope you have already started trying to communicate with daddy in letters.

August 18, 1963, letter home: dear mom: good morning it is lazy Sunday. I have started calculating where I should go from here and I came up with a question. I arrived right away at the idea that I should go back to school and get another degree. A bachelor’s degree today is like finishing high school was a few years ago; it is just expected. My first thought was going back to an American university for a Masters. I was going to ask if there would be any chance for a bit of financial assistance from home. I then thought of the fact that I would like to have you and dad make the trip over here when you can take some time off. It would be nice in that case if I were still over here. I have contemplated getting a job on the continent but I finally came to the bright idea that I could get another degree cheaper over here than I could in the states. With this in mind ,I am wondering if I could get some assistance from you and dad. If not, okay. I’ll chart some other course. If so, I will see how much I can gain from being here. I am getting my glasses changed while I am here and I have an appointment on 27 August. I might go to Brussels between now and then but at least I know I’ll be here on the 27th. Man! I have been looking into a lot of windows and I am certain of one thing. If I don’t buy at least $100 worth of clothes to take back to America, for me or someone else, I am stupid. The price is about a half or third as much. A nice Terry Lynn and wool suit, custom tailored for $30 or less. E.G.

I guess John is the person there most interested in good clothes. I have mentioned it to him. I guess I’ll have and go over to the Hewitt residence. I bought one of those real thin nylon raincoats yesterday for $5.60. I’ll be looking forward to hearing from you. I have kind of lost contact because of my tentative address. I again mention I hope you are trying to establish some communication with dad. It may seem hopeless but nothing is. If I didn’t believe in communication as a basis for getting along with anyone, Gwen and I would have gone ahead and gotten married and probably regretted it. We communicate and we are still friends but we decided we weren’t right. See you, love, Leroy.

August 27, 1963, letter home: dear mom: I hope all is well at home. I haven’t heard from anyone there since I left. I received a letter back directly from dad saying that he was surprised and curious. Gwen had written to him a couple of times and said nothing negative so I can understand his astonishment. He said only that he trusted it was for the best this way. He also mentioned his dismay as to how the big problem at home is ever going to be solved. The “big problem” I referred to is whether you are ever going to enjoy living together again or not. I would say that life is too short to not be concerned about a solution. I suggested to him the same thing I told you when we talked. I hope that one of you will have the courage to sit down and write a letter of the type you and I exchanged. It won’t be easy and one letter won’t be enough but unless you can think of something better, you should sure try it. If it is any encouragement, I felt closer to you when we were exchanging our “candid” letters, than I ever have before or since

Anyway: all is well with me I am not rushing into deciding what to do next. I am quite certain I will head for home in a month or so. I haven’t decided whether to go East or West yet. As for my part in “our” getting along, I was sorry afterwards about the PS in my first letter. It was uncalled for. I have decided that the biggest step I can take is to quit being critical in any way. I’ll trust in your intelligence and hope you will trust in mine. Please write. Love Leroy.

P.S. I’m back here to meet the Tisso’s. They should be along in a day or so. I spent last week in Brussels and will go back in a few days.

August 30, 1963: Louis and Enid Tisso, and there daughter Sharon, arrived in Hove to attend my wedding as family friends. When they learned I was getting married and they were invited, they decided to combine the trip with visiting Luis family in Czechoslovakia. The fact our wedding is canceled is not a problem for them. They were glad they finally had been motivated to quit procrastinating and do their European trip.  JE

[September 1, 1963: On this, the day I was going to get married, I instead left for Scotland driving Tisso’s rental car and serving as their tour guide.  JE

September 2, 1963: While we were in London on our way north, Sharon, who was about 20 years old and engaged to a guy at home in Vancouver, WA, decided to remain in Europe when her parents went home and travel around in youth hostels with me for a while.  JE

September 3, 1963: We traveled to Glasgow Scotland via Cambridge England. We spent the night in York. Sharon and I got lost walking and then apparently also driving the car.  JE

September 5, 1963: Went through Edinboro Castle with the Tisso’s.  JE

September 6, 1963: Louis, Enid and Tim, flew to New York from Prestwich airport in Scotland. [I don’t remember who Tim was, possibly a younger brother] We (Sharon and I) rode to the River Clyde with the car rental man and then hitchhiked to Loch Lomond Castle. We enjoyed dancing somewhere that evening after paying seven dollars each for youth hostel cards. We spent the night at Loch Lomond youth hostel.  JE

September 7, 1963: Left Loch Lomond headed for Inverness. Had good luck as far as Fort Williams, then luck ran out. After getting quite wet and cold we walked the two or 3 miles to the youth hostel at the base of Ben Nevins. (A 4000 foot mountain) We stayed at Glenn Nevitt’s youth hostel.  JE

September 8, 1963: Trying to hitch hike north, we got wetter and colder, changed our mind and headed south. Started to give up for the day at Glencoe but fate brought us to Loch Lomond youth hostel again.  JE

September 9, 1963: The start of the day was bad. We walked at least four miles and after 3 ½ hours got a ride at Dumbarton. Got permanent youth hostel cards in Glasgow and headed for Ayr. Rides came quickly and we arrived early at the hostel in Ayr.  JE

Went along the waterfront to find out about a possible ride to the ferry or a coal boat to Ireland. Ended up getting two small codfish for supper. After supper we spent a couple of hours on a coal boat in the galley with the drunk Cook. A good supper costs us about $.15 each if we really work at it. Spent the night at Ayr youth hostel.  JE

September 10, 1963: Arrived at the ferry with good luck. Had wild blackberries on the way. Ran into Ashley and Siti again and crossed to Ireland with them. Beautiful days. We had a fine supper all together. Now were going into the village of Ballygalley to visit a pub. Spent the night at Ballygalley youth hostel for three shillings a night ($.42) The ferry fare was $5.18 total for both of us.  JE

September 11, 1963 left Ballygally late and headed for Dublin. At Belfast we got a hitch 80 miles inland to Enniskillen in a truck. From there we got innumerable short hitches and ended up in Dublin at about 10 PM. Among our hitches were a mobile grocery shop, riding in the back, and empty dump truck, a meat wagon which took us (Hiding under a tarp) over the border in the back, a panel driven by a sloppy drunk, a jaguar, a car salesman in a Renault and an oil tanker truck. (four of us in the cab) We covered about 215 miles. Spent the night in the youth hostel at Dublin for $.56 a night.  JE

September 12, 1963: Spending the day in Dublin walking around. Ashley and Siti went for a ride in the country. We’re meeting them at the railway ticket office at 1:30 PM.  JE

Spent the afternoon walking around Dublin. Ate fish and chips on the bridge above the river Liffey. Took ferry at Dun Laogahaire. It was packed like a cattle boat. We spent most of our time on the deck under of beautiful starry sky listening to a guitar, harmonica, an accordion and folk singing. Finally got cold so we moved into the cafeteria and robbed leftovers.  JE

September 13, 1963 12:01 AM arrived at Hollyhead, Wales shortly after midnight. Got kicked off the boat finally so we went to the train station. Ashley and Sharon went to sleep. Siti and me wandered. Got a pint of milk and a can of beer from a Pullman kitchen and almost left with the empty train we were exploring. We finally slept from 4 to 7 AM in a parked train.  JE

Sharon and I had good luck hitching. We made it to Stratford-upon-Avon by 4:00 PM. We could have gone on to London. We went through the controversial cathedral at Coventry. It is truly wild. The organ and the harshness of every line made me think of the book, 1984.  JE

September 14, 1963 proceeded on to Oxford and then went cross-country down to Sussex. Received some very interesting rides, one from a young chap who quite frankly told us that he had lived off the earnings of women and other things. Arrived and stayed at Patcham youth hostel near Brighton. Picked up mail at Hove. We spent the night at Brighton youth hostel for three and nine a night. Weather was beautiful.  JE

September 15, 1963: Left bags in youth hostel and walked into Brighton, through Hove and back, up over Devils Dyke. We walked all day, well over 10 miles. Spent the night at Patcham again.  JE

September 16, 1963: Went to Martin and Shirley Williams’ for lunch after they picked us up hitch hiking. We spent the day there and went down to the local pub with them and another couple for a drink. Local pub was the Fox and hounds. We spent the night there at Hayward’s Heath.  JE

September 17, 1963: Spent the day at Martin and Shirley’s. Sharon cleaned up the house and I worked in the yard. I trimmed the hedgerow. We spent the night.   JE

September 18, 1963: Went to the chamberlains in the morning.  (Bert and Marge’s)  Went to work in the yard. Pulled weeds, cut and trimmed the lawn. We had private rooms and ate very regularly. Breakfast was followed almost immediately by morning tea. This was shortly followed by lunch and then afternoon tea. High tea usually wound up the day and then tea and rolls were served before bed. Bert has a very nice Armstrong Sidley (car).  Mike has a Renault Florida. We spent the night at their place in Hayward’s Heath.  (I don’t recall exactly who these couples were but I do recall working for people who had picked us up hitch hiking.)  JE

September 19, 20, and 21: spent working at Chamberlains. On the 21st, we rode to Maidstone with Martin, scrumped a few apples and visited Ashley’s family. We, Sharon and I, and Ashley and his girlfriend, took in the local carnival. Ashley and I partook of a tug-of-war. I about pulled my insides out but we lost two out of three to the professional team. Sharon and I made it to Dover in the evening and took the 1 AM boat to Ostend. Night was spent on the ferry and was able to sleep most of the way.  JE

September 22, 1963: (written by Sharon) Left the ferry dock at about 6 AM and walked out to the roundabout and waited for a ride. We were picked up by a fellow from Ghent. Robert Patenetta. He was just getting home. He took us to his apartment in Ghent. Very modern and had the best coffee since we left home. Then he took us on a guided tour of Ghent. Then left us on the highway to Brussels.  JE

We got a couple of short rides Into Brussels and were left with the afternoon to kill. We were very tired so we slept on a park bench until a cop kicked us off. I (Sharon) got up but Leroy went back to sleep and a fellow took his picture. I spent the night walking around Brussels with an English couple.   JE

September 23, 1963: (written by Sharon)  Picked up mail in Brussels. Leroy got 16 letters. I had one from Bob. Walked out of Brussels and we were picked up by a fellow from Liège. He took us into Liège. He bought us a wonderful meal on the way. He then helped me place a call to Bob before leaving us. We spent the night there?? Terrible youth hostel.  JE

September 23, 1963, letter home: Dear mom: I just received your two letters at Brussels this morning. Sharon and I did a tour of all of Great Britain and then last week we worked in a town called Hayward’s Heath for several days. The man we worked for has a big advertising company in London. He is a commercial artist and has quite a beautiful house and garden. We spent three days working in the yard while living very nicely with private rooms and such. It was a nice change from the cold water and dormitory bunks in youth hostels. We are now back on the road. We’re on our way to Germany at the moment. (I’m in the Liège post office). We are going to check the possibility of getting a job at a big ski resort in Southern Germany for the winter. If we can get one, I’ll pick up German and feel that my time was well spent.

My plans are still very bouncy at the moment. Dennis Marshall may be coming over to spend some time with me. Bev Johns, my airline flight attendant friend from Seattle might also be coming over to travel for a couple of weeks. I’m beginning to feel like a railroad switchman. What I wanted to say Mainly was: “thank you for the help offered to come home and thank you for the nice response to the change in plans. I don’t know why that letter wasn’t here before”. I hope you can understand why I didn’t come right back home. The main reason was that I didn’t want to do anything until I had a bit of time to think about things. I am still doing just that. I’m letting fate make most of my decisions for a while.

There is still the possibility of going to school over here but I think I’ll probably go for another degree in the states (when I get back). There is also the possibility of going around the world. My semi-tentative plans include going at least to Israel to visit Saul (from the U of W).

Well I’m out of paper so I’ll quit. I hope you and dad start to communicate before long. Maybe if you do you’ll see fit to make the trip over here before I come home. Give my regards to everyone. Love Leroy.

September 24, 1963: (written by Sharon)  Hitched ride to highway – ate cheese and bread for breakfast then got a ride with a fellow who took us by the American war Memorial and Cemetery and on to the border. He was out for a drive in a Czech car (a Skoda). Walked through the border, got a ride with Belgian major into Koln. Walked for miles, finally took a bus to youth hostel. Decided to go to other youth hostel. Walked about an hour and when we got there they didn’t have any room for girls. I walked back and we met halfway in the morning.   JE

September 25, 1963: Had a terrible night. Decided to treat ourselves to a good breakfast of soft-boiled eggs coffee and rolls. Then took the tram to wrong place. (What else is new) Walked with grandma, (??) scrummed some apples and then walked and finally got a lift to the entrance to the autobahn. Finally got a hitch with a fellow who took us to the youth hostel and Duisberg. Quite modern. Had a good meal.  JE

September 26, 1963: Left Duisburg with another American from Pennsylvania. He spoke German and we hitched together, briefly. An American in a stingray saw our US flag and gave Glenn (the American) a ride in his one empty seat. Sharon and I had good luck all day and got into Berlin at 9:30 PM. Many trucks and two VW’s. We walked to a youth hostel and they said they were full. They let us stay anyway. We went right to bed without eating anything since breakfast. Stayed in Bayernalle youth hostel, Berlin.  JE

September 27, 1963: Went by the U Bohn [Subway] and looked up Herbert Weber whom I met at Dover in August. He showed us around Berlin University and we had lunch with him in a student mess. He then borrowed a VW and took us into Berlin to see the airport and then to “Check Point Charlie”. We walked for several hours in East Berlin, bought some post cards and rolls. We looked at the wall and then went back through Checkpoint Charlie by U bahn. We went back to the youth hostel and had a half slice of bread and cheese each for supper.  JE

September 28, 1963: Sharon slept in the same dorm as a girl from Australia (Jill). This gal invited us to ride with her friend as far as Hamburg the next day. We accepted. It turned out the friend (Graham) wanted to go to Holland so we drove as far as Holland with them. On arriving it was too late for Youth Hostels so we got hotel rooms in Arnhem, Holland. (7 ½ Guilder each or $2.30 for bed continental breakfast with one egg, hard-boiled.)

September 29, 1963: Drove through Amsterdam, Harlem and Volendam with Graham and Jill. Stayed in the upstairs of a store in Broeck unt Waterland for two Gulden each.

September 30, 1963: Driving toward Den Haag and Rotterdam after a bread, cheese and tea breakfast for $1.30 each. We went on through Rotterdam and then to Brussels by the back road. The old streets made of square stone everywhere in Belgium are still obvious. Stayed in Vlams youth hostel, rue de poste.  JE

October 1, 1963. Graham and Jill left for England and we picked up our mail. Sharon got a nice letter from Bob and decided she had to go home. The rest of the day was spent in arranging tickets and buying clothes. Still in Vlams youth hostel.

October 2, 1963. Sharon boarded airport train at 8:20 AM. I spent the morning at the embassy and the afternoon at Luypaerts and the evening I visited Madam Monmart.  Stayed in Vlams Y H.

I’m waiting for some word from Dennis. He is the only contingent factor remaining except me. [Possibilities: Vienna, Yugoslavia, Istanbul, Ankara, Turkey, Tehran, Karachi, Pakistan.] JE

October 3, 1963. At 8:30 AM I went to Greg Associates to see about a job. At 8: 50 a.m. I had one. I am official telephone answerer [In French] for two days at “Establishment Francois, Entrepreneurs (contractors). I spent the evening with Rose and Paul. I moved into the new establishment at 26 Rue de Parme today. It is costing me two dollars a day for bed, breakfast and supper.

October 4, 1963. J’ai travaille toute la journée « Chez François. Rien d’importance. Je suis rentre le soir, soupe et causé avec plusieurs Hollandais et Belges. Nous nous sommes amusé ensemble. La nuit a 26 Rue de Parme. Il y a les deux Congolais qui ne sont pas très sociable. Je ne sais pas pourquoi.  JE

October 5, 1963. Je vais chercher mon courrier. J’espère. Il y avais une lettre de maman, une de papa, et une de Dave Strong.  Maman étais très sympathique et papa m’as donne l’impression d’être découragé. C’est dommage. Ah oui. J’ai passé l’âpre midi, ou bien, toute la journée chez Adrien. Nous avons ramassé les pommes de terres. On parlait des chose amusant.

Octobre 6, 1963 Fait une bonne promenade. Je suis sorti avec Helen le soir. Nous avons dansée chez Pol (Cortorierril) et mangé du poulet. Une bonne soirée.  JE

October 7, 1963. Ask for a chance to work for my room and board at Rue to Parme. They said no. As I was packing, they change their mind. I was put to moving a pile of sand. I finished it in about three hours. I was to have worked three days at Fr.150 a day (three dollars). At the end of the sand pile I was told that it was supposed to take me two days so I received three days room and board and no more work. Good work pace.  JE

October 7, 1963. Letter home. Dear mom: thanks for the letter and the picture. It’s a shame my face is in there. That’s a pretty good looking family otherwise. As for the dentist bill, he asked me in a letter to send something to his wife from over here in lieu of payment so I’ll try to do that. I guess the parking tickets are going to have to be paid. I didn’t remember that I had two but I think I recall it now. I’ll send them a letter in Seattle explaining why the delay and maybe they won’t be so nasty. I must go for the minute. I am shoveling sand. – – One hour later – – I am finished. Here is one for the books. I asked if I could work for my room and board here where I’m staying. I was told no so I came up and packed my things. Just as I was finishing, the gal came up and said that they thought of something I could do. I went and got my mail in town and when I got back at 11:30 I was put to work moving a big pile of sand from one part of the basement back into another part. I was called in and given the best meal I’ve had in quite a while and then I went back to my sand pile. I finished it at about 2:00 PM and came in. The gal gave me meal tickets for three days and said that I had earned them. They figured there was two days of work there and I finished it in three hours. It figures out that I earned $2.30 an hour and here in Belgium a laborer generally makes $.50 or $.60 an hour.

Well, outside of that, nothing much is new. All the other people I have been waiting on have finally cleared the air. Sharon got lonesome for her boyfriend last week and went home (with a little encouragement). Bev, my flight attendant friend couldn’t get a leave of absence and Dennis, unfortunately passed his physical for the draft. I am thrown in the very uncomfortable position of having to make up my own mind what I’m going to do. I have just about made up my mind to go on around the world. It won’t be certain until I start applying for visas but I don’t think that will be long. My trunk is due in London this Thursday so when I get it, I will be 100% free of all external factors. If you would send my nylon sleeping sack by air parcel post here to Brussels, it would be very useful. The big traveling case I don’t need. If I set out, I’ll get a rucksack. The only other thing I could use would be money I may need some more desperately at a later date. Give my love to all. Love Leroy. JE

October 8, 1963. Wandered around Brussels. Showed two American girls around in there VW. In the evening, René brought out his guitar and everyone started having a good time except me. I went to my room and decided to go home. I then returned downstairs and sang American songs for them. Had a good time. I had spent a good part of the day looking up embassies.  JE

October 9, 1963. Went into Brussels for my mail. Met three American girls from Washington, Gretchen Susan and Janet. I showed them around Brussels and decided I wasn’t sure about going home after all. In the evening everybody at the center studied. I helped René translate English to French.   JE

October 10, 1963. Drove the three American girls to Ghent, Bruges, and Ostend in their Volvo. Left them there and took the ferry to Dover. Spent the night in the Dover youth hostel.   JE

October 11, 1963. Hitched from Dover to London via Folkestone. Called Royal Mail lines and was told I could get my trunk Monday or Tuesday – Bah! Got put through to shipboard and found that my trunk was already unloaded. Went to Royal Mail house to get papers cleared and was told it was too late to get cleared through customs before 4 PM. A very nice chap named Michael Bamber called a friend at the dock who got a customs man to agree to clear me at 8 AM Saturday morning. Decided to pass the night without taking a room one way or the other. At present I am sitting in the middle of Piccadilly Circus. I just ate a cold can of Heinz spaghetti in tomato sauce. I am about to eat another one. One interesting thing I did was pay six pence to lock a subway locker without putting my luggage in. Fortunately, the keeper let me start over. Decided being fair with people is usually returned in kind..   JE

October 12, 1963. After a very interesting night wandering around Soho, I headed for Royal Albert dock. Man! It’s miles. Decided to only take a few things from my trunk and send it back. Customs man and dock men were nice. Bought a pair of shoes for 60 pounds. Wrote letters in St. James Park in the sun. Finally contacted Rod Haynes. Went and met his family and then spent the night at Graham Mapp’s flat at High St., Kensington   JE

October 12, 1963, letter home to Geraldine, my sister, and John. Dear J and G. How are you all? I am fine: free, insane, and 21. I think that in my last letter to mom I said I was going to go East. Right after that I changed my mind and decided to come home. I counted my pennies and decided it would be a long cold swim so I changed my mind back again. About Tuesday I will have my trunk on its merry way home and I will set out for Greece. I am aware that I could have borrowed enough money from someone to get home on. I don’t want you to think money was the sole deciding factor. Here in England I saw all of these people in their miserable ruts. I thought “that’s where I’ll be one of these days”. Consequently, I decided to try the ruts in the roads through Yugoslavia, Persia, and India before establishing my own rut.

I would like to hear how things are going if anyone ever has a minute to write. From now on, when anyone writes, there is something I would appreciate. Anything like pictures of things or newspaper clippings will be very useful to me. I have several ectachrome folders of Seattle and Western Washington. When I meet people who know nothing about the USA, these pictures etc. are invaluable. Even most Europeans who are supposed to be educated think of the USA as a big New York City or a big Hollywood, or worse yet, a big Birmingham, Alabama. When I get into the near East I will really appreciate these things. Old pictures of Washington, Lincoln and Hamilton would also earn many friends. Give my love to all. Leroy. JE

October 13, 1963. Had terrific luck hitching to Hayward’s Heath. Had lunch, drove to Hove with Bert and Marge. I have been given Mike’s old navy duffel bag. Hot dog. Spending night here.  JE

October 14, 1963. Traded my two Jardinières for Mike’s old duffel bag. Hitched a bug to London. American flag was definitely responsible for the two rides. Stayed at Holland Park hostel after walking all the way from bank station to the hostel. There was a very interesting colored guy at the hostel from New England area. Sent trunk collect so I used money to buy two maps and a sleeping bag. $2.40 for maps and $9.00 for sleeping bag.  JE.

October 15, 1963. Went to American embassy and renewed my passport for five dollars. Applied for Yugoslav visa at embassy. Went to Royal Albert dock to address trunk and got invited home by the warehouse foreman. We tipped several on the way with another chap, Norman. Charles seemed quite erratic. I think he was mainly drunk. I had a good night sleep at his place and met his family.   JE

October 16, 1963. Picked up Yugoslav visa for $1.04. Spent the afternoon at West Norwood, a technical school where Rod Haynes goes. Met several people; John? And Paul Bearaneck – Mittleman. Also a German/American gal name Claudia and English Susan (Grrr). Walked home with Rod, (4 miles) ate and looked at maps. Decided to go through Germany. Went over to John’s Attic and B S’d until 11:30 PM. Got a few hours sleep at Rod’s parents. Very nice people.   JE

October 17, 1963. Hitched to Dover. One fellow, a sculptor, gave me his card and asked to hear from me. Chap named Richard Scott, 66 Camberwell Grove, London S. E. 5, England. I am now waiting, about to board ferry for last trip to Ostend. I had a terrific lunch packed by Mrs. George Haynes. Very nice. Boarded ferry, made crossing. Got ride right to Brussels. Called Adrian and spent the night on his straw pile. Had a good discussion. $5.84 for ferry.   JE

October 18, 1963. Hitched from Brussels to Frankfurt Germany. Good hitching but uneventful. My flag got me a ride with some Americans. I about froze to death from Koln to Frankfurt. Left Brussels with $190, $80 of it in travelers’ checks.  JE

October 19, 1963. Hitched from Frankfurt to Stuttgart as per usual. About 4:30 PM I waved my American flag at a 63 Dodge dart and got a ride all the way to Italy. I went about halfway to Geneva with them to hook up their 58 Porsche. We arrived through the fog about 3 AM and slept a bit in the car. Got hooked up and I road as far as Rona with them.   JE

October 20, 1963. Hitched until dark. Ended up sleeping in an unfinished garage near Latizona  Italy. Italy has orange trees and good roads.   JE

October 21, 1963 made it to Yugoslavia border about 10 AM. Hitched as far as Zagreb after much walking through nice country. Finally found the police station and they directed me to a student hotel where I am paying 700 dinar, $.94. Chatted with some Yugoslavian students. They are very friendly and want some things from house. Sent a letter to Bev and a card to Saul.   JE

October 22, 1963 cold shower at 7 AM. I ran to the Beograd road. Walked in fog. Rode in the back of a farm truck, in a big truck, then walked 2 to 4 miles. Rode with three Yugoslavian’s. They dropped me at a gas station and I asked for a lift with some English guys taking camping trailers to Skopje, where the whole city had been leveled by an earthquake a few weeks before. Tony Venables with roundtables of Farnham. Roundtable organizations of Great Britain are bringing about 50 camp trailers to Skopje. We arrived just outside of Skopje at 2 AM. I slept in one of the trailers. Yugoslavia-  poor new cities with dimly lit shops 1 Fair Rd., others all  dirt.   JE

October 23, 1963. Skopje is unbelievable. Thatched rooves. Washed the trailers and had a good English breakfast and shoved off. Walked a long way. In one lift a truck threw a rod. Walked some more and finally got to Tito Villa. Walked through the whole town and met a bearded English archaeology student. Walked for 5 miles with him and finally got a lift. Ended up in a big truck that stopped for the night in a little village. Got sick as hell when I took a sip of wine. After a full, all ports explosion, toute de suite I was okay. Slept alongside and under the semi-. Real rugged mountains, little villages and kids asking for bonbons.   JE

October 24, 1963. Hit the road at 5 AM, if it can be called a road. In one ride, we had to wait for another truck to get over the hill before we could proceed. Made Gevagelia, Yugoslavia about 10 AM and had to walk 5K to the Greek border.

Waited around until about noon and got a ride with Robert (Rob) Lewis from Connecticut in a new VW. We drove through Greece and into Turkey. People were very friendly and helpful in Greece. I lost about 20% by changing some money into drachmas and back out. Slept in the front seat of a VW. They call me pretzel.   JE

October 25, 1963. Had to move watches up by two hours. Hit the road about 6:30 a.m. About one hour to Istanbul. No mail at American embassy. Istanbul is in two parts, old and new. All of the domes and minarets are in the old part. We are waiting for Rob’s car to be serviced. He will shove on and I think I’ll get some shots here. Got the shots, cholera, smallpox, typhoid/typhus. They cost me $.50 each. Checked in at the YMCA and had a shish kebab and bean salad. I paid $.70 to sleep at the Y.   JE

October 26, 1963. Having photos taken at the moment in front of blue Mosque. I got some DT pills yesterday and needed them. The filth here is about enough to make a person rebel. I palled around with some other Americans yesterday and it is obvious the majority of travelers are a certain type. Extreme??. Rob seem to have relevant scruples. He squared with me and bugged out on Bruce. My Syrian visa cost $3.00 and 70 cents  for the pictures [my funds were down to $184.90. I gained $10 on a fast shuffle (relevant morals?) but I don’t remember how.] Paid $.22 for an army money belt from an Englishman. On Saturday night I met an interesting couple at the hostel. Jim and Bev Skeie. He is a philosophy – theology major. I might look them up someday.   JE

October 27, 1963. Awoke with bites. Went to post office and bought stamps. Read and wrote until 1:30. Went out, Met an Iranian named Parviz.. Spent afternoon with him and Iradj. We walked through a very long, very dirty market. We ate fish cooked on a little boat down at the bridge. A slab of fish and a hunk of bread for 75 Kruse, seven cents. I got addresses in Tehran from my two new friends. Last night Jim told me about the Iranian attitude toward Americans and American language. It seems to hold true that they hope for retribution. I wonder how all the street vendors manage to live here. Staying at the YMCA ($.60).

October 28, 1963. Got Iranian visa – gratis. Received letter from Jan Frost. Had a cheeseburger and coffee and ice cream in the Hilton Hotel. Got souvenir. Walked through brothel Street. Bought melon and ate over half. 4 ¼ kg for $.42. Spent much loot today. That must stop.   JE

October 29, 1963. Went to a big parade. Big deal. Spent the whole day walking through milling crowds. Met up with a couple of Peace Corps fellows, Dave and Jim. They are teaching a little town in south Turkey. We were in a group of five. Dave and I, American; Andre, Canadian; Lion, Turk and Wolfgang, German. Went to “The Stockade” in the evening and then to the Hilton to meet other Peace Corps members. Dave and Jim forgot their ID at their hotel so I will take it to them.  [Funds $178.40] JE

October 30, 1963. Decided against student card. Hitched to Konya. Took boat to Asia for $.10 and caught first car along, a 1963 Chevrolet. The old boy (72 years old) spoke French so we could talk a little. He was a structural engineer. I had a smashing dinner on him in the cities best eating house. I didn’t want to get stuck in a big city like Ankara so I rode on to Konya with them. I stayed in a hotel which cost me $.35 for the night. It was a three-bedroom but I was alone. JE

October 31, 1963. Good God! There’s snow on those mountains. I’m sitting on top of a loaded truck with 205 km to go to Adana. I’m wearing my fur hat and I have my sleeping bag around me. It’s not too cold today. It seems that everyone wants to exchange addresses, even when we can’t communicate. Now I know how frustrating it is when someone nods and says yes in response to everything. Am now on a bus from Adana to Gehan, where Dave and Jim are.

My rides today were:

Number one: a loaded flatbed truck –  80 km riding on a load of poles.

Number two: a freight truck – 300 km, first 150 K’s on top of load. The driver seemed to be two thirds asleep. One guy flagged us, paid something and rode with us a half hour or so. In the middle of nowhere, he banged on the top of the cab for the driver to stop and struck out across the plains on foot with no road or trail. He seemed to be the bandit type to me. [This is the guy I clearly remember who appeared to be sizing up whether it would be worth his while to throw me off the truck to take whatever was in my duffel bag. I had my legs and arms wrapped securely under the ropes holding the load down.]

Number three: a gravel truck – 120 km over mountains. Saw camels, many goats, and houses with no roads, windows or lights. There is a terrible number of trucks smashed up on the roads. Five or six and a bus yesterday and three so far today. This bus ride is costing me $.20 for 50 km. The bus steering is loose. I spent the night with Dave and Jim. JE

November 1, 1963. Hitched from Gehan to Engerlic Air Force Base. I was happy to find the Americans very helpful. The A.P. at the gate called the hospital for an okay and then gave me an escort on base. He then suggested I would want some free time for snack bar etc. and shoved off. My second cholera and a tetanus cost me one dollar total. I am now in the snack bar. Met a couple from California who are touring after discharge. They have APO privileges so I made a bold move. I gave them $15 and my address to send some things home for me.  We’ll see. Their name were Bob and Jane Faneuil. I guess I’ll always be a sucker but I don’t think they’ll do me wrong. Rode a Dolmush back to Gehan for $.25. Stayed with the Peace Corps guys for the night. JE

November 2, 1963. Hitched a truck to Iskenderun. The boss at the dock spoke French and put me in a horse drawn taxi. (ARABA). Driver took me to the high school and then to the house of Cindy and Margarette. I ended up across the street waiting at Fofo’s house. Cindy came home but I had dinner at O’beidi’s . Mr. O’beidi’is very interesting to talk to. In evening I went to dinner at some friends of the Peace Corps guys. Afterwards I went to get a hotel room and although I got disgusted, I met a very kind young guy who went way out of his way to help me. Hotel room – $.55. JE

November 3, 1963. Went to a Greek Orthodox service with the O’beidi family. Had dinner, stuffed eggplant with yogurt. Spent evening together. Night in hotel again – $.55. JE

November 4, 1963. Hitched from Iskenderun to Syria border with Mohammed and his wife in a Chevrolet. Got ride with Syrian car dealer at the border, at Syrian customs. He gave away three nylon shirts and some fruit and vegetables. After at least three hours of red tape and weighing the car we carried on to Damascus. We were stopped in the dark on a lonely stretch of road by a military tank parked crosswise on the road with soldiers carrying automatic rifles. It looked like a little revolution but after talking to the driver they let us go on our way. The driver took me to a hotel after seeing some women to deliver his gifts. He is looking for a second wife. He has nine children by his one wife. Nice snack bars along the route. Big sandwich and a coffee for one Syrian pound ($.28)  It should cost one and a half pounds for the night according to my car dealer friend but the morning hotel man said the rate was “one dollar” U.S (3 ½ Syrian pounds) I got it for two Syrian pounds, $.56. JE

November 5, 1963. Eating hot pudding and cookies for breakfast. Going to carry on to Beirut. Am waiting at the Beirut Road for a cop (military type) to stop a car or truck for me. International Fairgrounds seemed very nice. Just saw a guy go by on his motorbike with a skinned out sheep draped across the rear. Weather is very warm, about 70° now at 10 AM. It’s only around 100 km from Damascus to Beirut. He did it. Got a truck but not all the way to Beirut. Ate two big sandwiches and caught an olive  truck and a free cab to Beirut. Got disgusted at American embassy. Got run around at dock. Took hotel bed for two P.L. and went to University District to eat. Spending the evening with two sailors. Beer, beer, beer. Bed in hotel : 2 P. L. ($.66) JE

November 6, 1963. Got information about cement ships to get to Cyprus. Met a man who invited me “chez sa famille” (last night. He invited me butI  refused- {suspected his motive}). Just changed travelers check into $50 and 30 P.L. Bought a tapestry – sending it off in a few minutes. (T paper and baskets) I like Beirut better all the time.

Spent five. P. L. ($1.66) on a tapestry and $.90 on postage. My rendezvous didn’t show up so I hitched a scooter to the Tripoli Road. Two fellows who spoke some English paid part of my fare for a bus to Shekka. I missed the cement ship by two minutes. I must clear immigration anyway. Took a cab for $.17 to Tripoli (22 km) got a hotel bed for 3 P. L.. (One dollar) and then found another hotel for half that amount. (For tomorrow). I am having a rough time with my constant craving hunger for something. I think it’s nervousness from trying unknown things. Boat hopping, etc. JE

November 7, 1963. Went to shipping agent. He sent me out to a chemical plant where a ship was loading. I met the captain who said he couldn’t “officially” take anyone. He and the guard said I had to have a visa from Beirut. I came to Beirut. I don’t need a visa. How about that?. I learned an old lesson today. I got taken for 10 P.L..(Three dollars). Three card monty on the sidewalk. I guess I’m not so damn smart. I’m going back to Tripoli tonight. I will still try for either the cement boat or the chemical boat even though I am getting a hell of a run around.

Met Peter in Beirut on an overloaded tram. He got off to help me and we had coffee together. I must not forget him! spent night chez Said and Mawed in Tripoli. [Slept on floor of Palestinian refugee building with rats passing through.] JE

November 8, 1963. Sitting in an auto parts shop watching the owner trying to raise enough capital to buy a garage. The shop is grubby, disorganized and inefficient but he drives a new Mercedes. What a day: Went to George Chudiak shipping agent and to immigration security. I then talked with agent of Russian ships. Had a gorgeous dinner at the boss’s brother’s house. Potatoes, French fried, very tasty beans, fried egg with meat, sliced tomatoes, fried egg plant and then fruit. Went to the Russian ship “Neshin”. [I just walked up the gangplank and asked if I could come aboard.] My welcome was reluctant but when the captain came, he invited me to dinner. I stayed and we had vegetable soup, steamed meat, and potatoes and cold tea with canned fruit in it. After losing a chess game and then seeing a very pro-Khrushchev film on the second world war, we had tea and tough cookies. I exchanged addresses with Anastasiy and Ivan. At first Anastasiy avoided me and he spoke the best English on board. In talking, he gave me a very good example of how communication can break down. The old “ yes” reply. I was given a Lenin pin and a picture of the woman cosmonaut as souvenirs. In the dining room were several “Yea Russia” posters and four big portraits, Marx, Lenin, Engles, and Khrushchev. I left a Newsweek magazine and some Washington state pictures as souvenirs. Out of 35 crew members, eight are communist party members. Staying at Said and Mawed’s place on the floor again tonight in Tripoli. JE

November 9, 1963. The boat didn’t show this morning. I went out to Shekka to check for myself after the agent told me. I came back to Tripoli very disgusted. At the port this morning a waiter tried to keep 50 paistre for a bottle of pop. I got my 22 P back. ( $.08) back. I wandered into a travel agency and ended up getting invited to dinner by Tony. Gosh what a spread (two dollars each) about eight or 10 gooey things and bread. A shot of Harac – then raw gooey eggplant with meat and tomato and rice. Then grapes. Went up to eighth century castle and then wandered into a market and met Alan and others discussed Israel.

I was pricing lady’s bathrobes for kicks. First price for a satin one was 20 5P. L. ($8.33) last price was 15 P. L. ($5.00). [I was practicing my bargaining technique]. I moved on to another shop and got prices of 30, 20, 15, and 12 P. L. for the same garment. An Australian – Lebanese came along and we started talking. His friend, in French, pounced on me saying that the US Congress cut aid to Nasser to improve Israel’s position. We ended up with the possibility that Israel is the US foothold in the near East against Russia or China. Last night, (Saturday night) I almost jumped on Mawed verbally for having pictures of Nasser all over the room. It was like the Russians. Turkey and Yugoslavia also worship their leaders. JE

November 10, 1963. Spent day with Allan and had dinner at his place. Saw a show (Hemingway’s story of a young man). Got sort of lost and came home with Saeed. Got approached by a low type. JE

November 11, 1963. Staying here with Saeed and Mawed I have seen real unselfishness, determination, and friendship. I have heard the morning noises of a tenement house and seen the rats at night.

By gosh! I did it. I finally hitched a ride on a boat. Next stop, Cyprus (Famagusta). I’ve got to sack out now I’m going to get replaced on the bunk at midnight. Cement ship from Shekka.  Wooops!. I don’t even get a bunk until midnight. I’m going to sleep out on the hold.  Ahhhh! I slept on the forward hatch: stars, water, the chug, chug, chug of the engine, warm air. It was very peaceful. I am on the Greek ship A. G. Nicolaos. JE

November 12, 1963. Arrived at Famagusta at 12:15 PM. Cleared customs at 1:15 PM. No ships to Israel for six days. Hitched to Nicosia. Found youth hostel about 6:30 PM. Well worth the search. I am going to enjoy my six days here. The weather is beautiful and the hostel is very nice for four shillings a night ($.56) spent much money in Lebanon my remaining funds are $131.00. JE

November 13, 1963. Rented a bicycle for three Bob ($.42) a day. Ride around the city. Spent night in youth hostel. JE

November 14, 1963. Rode up to St. Hillarian castle on a bike. About 16 miles up into the mountains. Went from there to the Abbey Belape with the two English gals. Went to Kyrenia and to Kyrenia castle. Saw a room full of Neolithic pot shards. Picked up my Israeli visa on a separate sheet of paper. Played chauffeur for the two English girls all afternoon in an Austin 40. We tend to forget in America: hot clean water, sanitary conditions, ease of border crossing, police protection and a stable pricing system. JE

November 15, 1963. Completely goofed away the day. Sent off a package with slippers and pottery to mom. Cost- $3.00 for pottery, $2.50 for slippers and $1.30 for postage. Ate ice cream cones in town (four). My craving appetite is making me wonder. I am quite concerned with my feeling of uselessness. Lebanese taxi cabs are a good example of poor communication turning pure competition into many islands of monopoly. Nicosia youth hostel – $.56 a night. JE

November 16, 1963. Went to library. Did my laundry. Got a terrific book called readings in economics and politics by HC Harlan. JE

November 17, 1963. Did my ironing. Took a bicycle ride with two English guys who were 20 years old and in very good condition. We rode 26 miles to Larnaca. Oh how good the figs which we found on a tree alongside the road after we had been riding for hours without any water tasted. On the way back I got a ride in a car the last 5 miles I rode 45 miles in one afternoon. I’m beat. JE

November 18, 1963. Waiting for ship to Israel at Limassol. Left Nicosia about 11 AM and caught a lift in an MG midget with Vassilio A. Nikita’s. His sister owns a couple of automotive machine shops. Spent afternoon philosophizing with Ray. He wants to change society. Finally boarded the ship, the SS Athinai, about 9 PM. Watched them lower cars over the side onto a barge. Met tattooed Lawrence from Chicago.

Lecture topic: in Cyprus and many other countries, education is thought of as the hope for the future. It costs money for an education and most people in school want to learn. JE

November 19, 1963. Arrived Haifa at 9 AM. Cleared red tape about 10:30 AM completely frustrated. The day went from bad to worse. I tried to hitch to Tel Aviv and got here three hours later and 20 Agorot shorter than if I would have taken the train. Hitching is no good. Bah! Got my mail and word that no telegrams had come. Went to post. Couldn’t complete call tonight. Called Saul. He is in Haifa. Going back tomorrow. His mother speaks German but no English. I’m sleeping here tonight. I don’t know what to do about the phone call. Mom sent $10 but no big money. It’s probably what the phone call is about. Uncompleted phone calls are terribly frustrating. Bev’s letters were nice. JE

November 20, 1963 went to bank in Tel Aviv to get address. Tried to complete call home. Nothing but much waiting and a big goof on my part. I changed telephones and the operator didn’t get the word. The train ride to Haifa was very rough, fast, and refreshing. Met Saul and had supper. Went to the kibbutz. [Kibbutz Ein Hamifratz] and got invited to a party. Everyone in the dining room thought I was a Russian vice ambassador there for a lecture because I entered with the secretary. (head man). JE

November 21, 1963 spent the day looking for a two hour cleaners. No luck. Returned to Tel Aviv with Saul and visited several Israel families. Got a good summary of how the kibbutzim came about from Auras father. Stayed at Witkowitzes. Tried again to make telephone contact but the line was out of order most of the day JE

November 22, 1963. Went to Embassy and had them call radio communications. At end of day I was finally told that no attempt had been made since the 18th which was Monday. If that was the case then Wednesday at the post office was a farce. At 9 PM while visiting an Israeli family, we got word of Kennedy being shot. A few minutes later word came that he was dead. We went ahead with the evening at the Sabra club and saw Eddy Calvert but the enormity of the news dampened the spirit of the evening. JE

November 23, 1963. Spent a very quiet Sabbath at home. Had a nice dinner and I studied Hebrew, German, calculus, and economics alternatively. Going to go to a movie as soon as Saul comes back. Kennedy’s assassination still seems like something that should only be read about in a history book. Every time I have been inactive I still have spells of my craving appetite. It is generally for something like chocolate but impossible to quell. JE

November 24, 1963. Arrived at Kibbutz Einhamifrats. I was assigned a tiny room in a two room building. Sent letters to mom, dad, and Dennis. JE

November 25, 1963. Getting organized in kibbutz. So far the organization and speed haven’t impressed me. It is 11:30 AM and I’m still waiting. For some reason I got missed. Finally got shoes and clothes. The kibbutz is governed by the Gen. assembly which elects a Central committee, Secretary, farm manager etc. Only the proper party can be espoused [??] politically. Went to a party after supper and talked until midnight with the hostess about her personal reasons for not liking capitalism. I hope to get her to consider the kibbutz life versus private enterprise life more generally. JE

November 26, 1963. Up at 5:45 AM and out into the grapefruit orchard. The trees have thorns. A typical breakfast seems to be bread, raw tomatoes, a boiled egg, coffee and milk, white creamed cheese and onions. After 10 AM I picked lemons. They also have thorns. Going to go have coffee now.

4:15 PM had coffee. Asked a question and got no answer. Would the self-governing aspect of the kibbutzim be concerned if the central government was socialist? (Part to whole) listened to classical music in the evening. Must go to a concert. JE

November 27, 1963. Picked guava all day. What a peculiar odor they have. Back to the grapefruit tomorrow. Got a razor today. Went to David and Fellah’s house tonight. We had tea and then we all went to the neighbors and had a cherry brandy, cookies, open sandwiches, coffee, and orange sections. Walked  to the chemical plant to talk to Saul. Sending a letter to Bud to prepare for contingencies. JE

November 28, 1963. Picked grapefruit all day. I must describe a real breakfast. Two big raw tomatoes, one large green pepper, one small white onion or two very large green ones, one grated radish (the size of a baseball), one huge gob of cream cheese. Chop all vegetables and mixed together with quarter cup olive oil and top with the cheese. Makes a heaping plateful. Follow up with fried eggs and coffee (Turkish). Went to Ako after work and came right back. Talked with an international relations student in the evening. JE

November 29, 1963. Picked grapefruit and mandarins. In the p.m. I loaded and unloaded crates of grapefruit and  ??. After supper I went to a stage performance of “the Glass Menagerie” by Tennessee Williams with about 175 kibbutz members. Afterwards at midnight I went over to the chemical plant to see Saul. While I was there, he lost power in the whole production plant. It was quite interesting. JE

November 30, 1963. Worked in the grapefruit in the a.m. Slept in the p.m. while it rained. Spent the evening at Rachel and Joseph’s. After supper saw a movie in the dining room (Enemy Below). JE

December 1, 1963. Cleared brush and limbs and cactus to put into grass. Went to the movie in a truck and saw West side story. JE

December 2, 1963. Because of the rain we didn’t work all day. We were at the dining hall at 6:30 but after one false start we went back to my place and drank tea. I spent the day studying my German and talking philosophy with Patrick Souriau. In the evening Saul came by and we all went and visited his sister in a Muchard (cooperative marketing and machinery). JE

December 3, 1963. Worked all day in a light rain. Trimmed trees and raked leaves, etc. It finally rained us out about 3 PM. Took a shower and went and got some aerograms. Afterwards I went to David and Fellah’s. I’m going to play chess with Moses at 8:30 tonight. Patrick and I are going to go to Jerusalem tomorrow. Played chess until about 10:30 PM and then talked until almost midnight. Went to bed with very cold feet. A lightning and thunder storm hit, threw my door open and dumped rain and hail all night. Power went off and I heard a horn blowing. It was the worst, most powerful storm imaginable. [The lightning flashes were so constant it was like being under a bright floodlight and the thunder rumbling was so steady it was like being alongside a train flying by on a track. I was reminded of the biblical stories describing the wrath of God.] JE

December 4, 1963. Received an express letter telling me that there is $470 at the bank for me. It is a great feeling to have someone put such an amount of faith in me. [ I think this was money from Dennis Marshall, who had recently sold his car.] Now I am waiting for news from home. At the moment, we are on the way to Tel Aviv on the “rock ‘n roll” train. Arrived in Jerusalem just at dusk. The mountains are all stratified very clearly and very old. The temperature must be around 40° which really cuts. JE

December 5, 1963. Went and saw the Minister of health lab where Siti works. Bought a set of “Chronicle newspapers” and sent them to grandpa Cook. Ate lunch at the Hebrew University. Saw the Dead Sea Scrolls. Remarkable hand. Tried hitchhiking for about two hours. Finally got soaking wet so we went and took a train to Haifa. To pass time four of us played word games and Qui Vol? in French. J’ai fait un aller retour a quatre parts .Patrick drew a picture. Arrived back at Einhamifratz about 9:30 PM, very tired. JE

December 6, 1963. Worked for the gardener again today, taking up lawn turf. I’m convinced I’m in pretty poor physical condition. I thought I didn’t get any letters but David informed me he has several at his house for me. The long wait is over, I hope. All kinds of ideas about why no letters have passed through my head. Here goes— letter from mom-telegram just made it. Letter from Corrine, thanks. I still don’t know about Bev. There was a party at the dining hall. I had cake coffee and wine and pretzels. I missed the dancing because I went to Saul’s place for the night. JE

December 7, 1963. Dalia Deingott, Saul and I went to visit during the day. We went to an Anglo-Saxon kibbutz where I met some American and Canadian Israelis kibbutzniks. The food was lousy and the people were interesting. In the evening we went for a walk around Haifa and to the show for nothing. Saw the movie:  “The Loneliness of a long-distance runner”. JE

December 8, 1963. Went to Haifa, got money. I am wearing $490 around my waist. I also applied for my ticket credit. Got drenched coming home. JE

December 9, 1963. My trunk is due in Seattle. Picked bananas today in a torrential rain. We used a tractor going and coming and a cat D6 in the fields. David, the secretary, has my money. If he is still in the country, I’m going to put it back around my waist and leave it there. I’m going to Tel Aviv tonight with Saul.

Being in this situation should impress on me how time slips by while waiting for things to develop. When a person is at home, years can get by because we don’t like to push. I don’t want to be here for years so maybe I’ll learn to push. JE

December 10, 1963. Went to Air France. Got welcome service address for Calcutta and Hong Kong. Got Japan visa. I had to start getting mad to get it. Mlle. Solomon gave me a bogey ticket to use tomorrow. Reading a book by Alexandra King. Bought some things. Mouthwash, razor blades, and comb $1.00. JE

December 11, 1963. Got Burma & Hong Kong visas. $2.15 and $2.09 respectively. The red tape and Chanukah beat me out of an international driving license. Here I am in a crummy hotel room for two dollars. For some reason I am finding it more and more distasteful. I wonder if I’m becoming aware of some attribute like human dignity? It may be. I paid 3 pounds (twice) more without even flinching just to have a private crummy room instead of a three bed room. Sent cards to Dr. John and the Frosts today. I am still not sure why I didn’t go to Jerusalem for the night. I was certainly have had a place to stay. Funds on hand $495. JE

December 12, 1963. What a paradox: to loath mediocrity and at the same time savor the horizons it offers; the horizon obscured by specialization. Spent the day in Tel Aviv. Met Charlie Feigenbaum. Went to Jerusalem in the evening only to find the University was on vacation. Stayed anyway at the Schicum studenten in Allenby. JE

December 13, 1963. Walked in Jerusalem during the day. We went to a movie and came out about sundown. Sabbath in Jerusalem is really something. The taxicabs get some sadistic pleasure out of driving around empty. No buses, no stars, no nothing. I decided to make a fast re-entry to Haifa on Saturday or Sunday. Funds $465 plus local. JE

December 14, 1963. Had a steak for brunch in Jerusalem and Siti decided to go to Tel Aviv. We caught a service taxi since it was Sabbath. I tried to call Charlie Feigenbaum in Tel Aviv but he wasn’t in so I caught a bus to Haifa. Met a pleasant Israeli girl on the bus through a bold move on my part. In Haifa I visited the Diengott residence and headed for the kibbutz. Got there about 11 PM. I had a letter from mom (the second one) and one from Bev Johns with $50 in it. Wow! Encroyable. JE

December 15, 1963. Said goodbye to all. Took taxis to Tel Aviv. Arrived at Air France at 4 PM. Mlle. Solomon gave me a hug and got me a ride to the airport since I had missed the bus. I am on board a Boeing 707 to Tehran, Iran about to be served dinner. I am traveling with Mr. and Mrs. Charles Feigenbaum from Nashville. Man! what a nice in-flight dinner. Complete with a bottle of wine on my kosher friend. I’m half tipsy, between the wine and the high and low pressure. Arrived at Tehran at about 1:30 AM, Tehran time. The temperature was right around freezing. Spent the night in the lobby of the Feigenbaum’s first-class hotel. JE

December 16, 1963. At 6:30 AM. I hit the sidewalk [and was amazed by a mountain covered with snow in front of me. I assumed Iran would be desert like.]. It was cold. I warmed my hands at a Christmas tree salesman’s bonfire. Tehran has wide streets. There is a funny thing here. Every Iranian that I meet, tells me that all Iranians are crooks. I just bought a fur hat as an investment. I am waiting for a bus to the airport at 7:30 p.m. The plane to Delhi leaves at 3 AM. I was lucky to get a seat. Spent nine dollars. (Clothes, jewelry, and a hat. Funds on hand $451. JE

December 17, 1963. Arrived in Delhi at 8:30 AM. Fortunately the gal from BOAC couldn’t get me a hotel room. I took a scooter cab to YHA. I went to Air France. I struck on a good system of shopping. I used only a pen and paper, leaving all money in my room. Once the venders would realize I had no money with me and was truly researching, they would become a friend and offer advice on what dishonest things others might do which I should be wary of. I felt great knowing that no one was cheating me. I met a photographer in a restaurant called Chubby. He gave me a book and I ordered some cards. I had some curry to eat. Whew!! Hot..

I headed for the youth hostel and met Paul on the bus. I went home with him and his brother, Kapool. I just had supper at 9:30 PM. On entering, I got a glass of water. They have servants. Today was a wonderful day I hope more follow. JE

December 18, 1963. Took a taxi into Connaught Place at 6:30 AM and took my first guided tour. I paid 3.20 RP for the cab. The bus to Agra cost 16 RP ($3.50). The Taj Mahal and Agra Fort are incredible. I am staying in Agra tonight at the Agra Hotel. A private room, such as it is, with all meals for 16 Rupees. I am going to take Indian food. Here’s hoping. Supper, breakfast and a packed lunch. Ho ho. I couldn’t eat the supper but it didn’t matter because I took a meal in Agra with K. D.  Khanduri, central telegraph, Agra, and his neighbor. We spent a good three or four hours talking about wives, government plans, caste system and the segregation problem. They have a sour fruit that makes water taste sweet. JE

From second book: On the trip to Agra I was engrossed by the means of roadbuilding. Children with baskets on their heads carrying the stones and dirt and men with weighted sticks tamping the roadbed. Near one village we passed the carcass of an animal beside the road. Some local people were busy cutting off flesh. Another time I saw the amount left for the vultures, only pink bones.

December 19, 1963. Up at 4 o’clock. I am waiting for my Tonga-(horse and wagon.) I got to the railway station and the train was one and a half hours late. I arrived in Delhi after four hours of Indian second-class train travel. There are 4 classes – reserved, one, two, and three. I paid eight Rupees for 150 miles. I talked with the export Department of cottage industries and then went to the Federation of Indian Chambers of commerce. I tried to return to Oberoi’s and could not find my little address book. I organized a search from the Pruitt’s college. The evening was great. Supper. -Paul and I went for a walk. I met George from Switzerland of the MRA.  (Moral rearmament Association). JE

December 20, 1963. Up at 8 AM and into the M.R.A. office. I was supposed to meet the two Seattleites at 8:30 but I was late. My departure was scheduled for Saturday morning at 6 o’clock. Due to the society of the people I’m staying with and the people of the MRA I am prolonging my stay until Friday, December 27. I am invited to review a play Sunday night and I want to go see “Space is a startling thing” Monday or Tuesday. I may go North for Christmas with some Peace Corps people. I saw a butcher holding his knife with his toes.

I talked to Dr. Ram Gopall Agrawal, deputy secretary of the Federation of Indian Chamber of Commerce and industry. New Delhi. He referred me to B. N. Gupta, 28B Connaught Pl., New Delhi India. I spoke to Mr. Gupta and he was very encouraging. He suggested a promotion to import only the decorative parts to adorn American produced articles (cable-FURNIFAB). JE

December 21, 1963. I had a relatively bad day today. I’m afraid I am destined to be a cynic. I went to write some letters home and found that I was in a blue mood. Time began to hang heavily. I went to the Cambodian embassy. I will get my visa Monday morning or Tuesday. I’m holding tough here to find out if pop Oberoi is really going to the Ganges Monday or Tuesday or if it was just talk. He finally mentioned this morning that he wants a letter very much. This evening the day picked up. Mr. U. and I went for a walk before dinner. After dinner we went for another. We stopped at the Littel residents where they have 10 servants. I am going for lunch their tomorrow and may even be able to do him a favor. The letter referred to is a letter of invitation from some big American importer. JE

December 21, 1963. Notes from second book. I bought this book today with the intention of writing anything and everything in it that comes to my mind. I am sitting in the bedroom at the Oberoi residence. Three itinerant vendors from Kashmir just came in and tried very desperately to sell me some cashmere, papier-mâché, or leather products. They got my sympathy but that is all. I am presently toying with the idea of importing Indian handicraft to the Seattle area. I have contacted several people here and I am contemplating sending a crate of samples home. Mr. Oberoi, in whose home I am staying, is dabbling in the brass exporting business. He poses somewhat of a dilemma to me. According to him, his hobby is inviting people and being a host. He’s been very hospitable to me. I however feel, some reservations toward the whole deal

I sit in the house of a very rich type. His son is going to the states next year to study at MIT. He graduated first in his class (summa cum laude) in Delhi University. The father asked me: “What can you do to help my son at the school next year?” I surmised I might be able to get the name of someone at MIT to whom he could address himself on arriving. On mentioning this possibility, I was invited to take a meal here. I will try to make it. I am amazed by the use of servants here. Mr. Oberoi said his Cook, “Nandoor” gets about 100 Rupees a month ($22). Oberoi has a cook and a driver at least. This person’s house is even more luxurious than Uberoi’s. There are 10 servants in a four bedroom house and the master, Mr. Millel, is separated from his wife, the second one.

At a neighbors I have been trying some Indian food from Calcutta called papar. Like tortillas but very thin, crisp, and spicy hot. This lady keeps calling the servant to bring in more. Each one 6 to 8 inches in diameter, each is a different kind. Some are of corn flour, some, rice flour. There are 12 kinds. They all taste of the same pervasive Indian herbs.

December 22, 1963. Continued from second book. I’m about convinced that this hospitality is sincere in the sense that life is a series of circles. They believe very strongly in the storing up of good terms to be returned at some indefinite future time. Mr. Oberoi comments often on the lack of this forceful hospitality in Americans. He told me that it is necessary to refuse the first offer of a drink or dinner when one calls on a friend, otherwise they will think that is why you visited. He commented that Americans always accept but don’t offer.

December 22, 1963. Didn’t do much except have a wild ride through old Delhi. Went to the MRA production “We Are Tomorrow” in the evening. JE

From second book. My God! What a ride! For 15 minutes we streaked and screeched through the streets of old Delhi on the way to Paul’s cousins. There were people massed in the buildings and all the shops on the open areas, and in the streets. We honked and wound through pedestrians, bicycles, scooters, three wheeled taxis, ox carts, or slogans, taxis, buses, trucks, and wandering cows. Here truly, an inch mess is as good as a mile. Sure enough. On the way to the auditorium we got smacked in the rear by a motorcycle with two riders. It was luckily, nonserious. I am now about to see the preview of an MRA play: “We are Tomorrow”. — The acting in “We are Tomorrow” wasn’t too hot but the moral was good. Met John Sayre and Rusty Wells on stage. They graduated from the University of Washington in 1958.

It is quite an experience to meet someone and see real idol worship in their eyes. The idol of course, is not me, but “an American.” I have had this experience several times since I hit the middle east. I was introduced to one of Paul’s friends tonight. He asked me how I liked India and from then on, all he could do was look enviously at me. Israel was an exception to the rule. [Israelis have greater pride in Israel than Americans do in the U.S.]

December 23, 1963. At the Cambodian embassy. I came by scooter taxi and the so-and-so tried to charge me 95 N P. ($.21) I should have paid him nothing but being a pushover, I gave him 65 MP ($.17). His speedometer was disconnected. [Inserted from second book ] Gad ! It is costing me 20 ½ Rupees for a visa to Cambodia ($4.40) I wouldn’t be surprised if I could bargain for this but I don’t have the nerve to try. In Delhi I purchased five carving sets, two small vases, a water buffalo horn stork, and a couple of carrying bags. The total for all of them with shipping was $4.48. JE

December 23, 1963. Continuation from the second book. It is very difficult to figure out what these people are thinking. Again, I am getting the feeling that this wonderful hospitality has a fishy smell. I am finding that an appointment, a promise, or just a casual date means nothing. I find the situation in this house very peculiar. Mrs. Oberoi returned today. I was presented to her and she ignored me as if I didn’t exist. Maybe to her I am the same as an untouchable. She is a vegetarian so she is obviously a Brahmin or a Banyo.

  1. Paul just came through the living room and asked me if I was leaving tomorrow. He said his pop is going to Bombay tomorrow. I called Indian Airlines and put my name on the waiting list for tomorrow a.m. One of the things I noticed when I first met the two Oberoi boys, was the way they handle paying the fair on the bus. Instead of paying three fares for three people, they told the conductor they didn’t need tickets and then gave him a tip equal to maybe one ticket. It appears Mrs. Oberoi might just be bashful. I am assured by Mr. Oberoi that that is the case. Rajinder Paul and his cousin D. L. want me to find them some pen friends. Age between 16 and 18, either male or female (girl for Darshan). I had a good discussion with pop and I am quite convinced he is sincere. I hope I can learn a good lesson from his wonderful generosity.

Today I changed $40 on the black market. I got 6.35 per dollar in lieu of 4.75 at the official rate. I don’t think I want to use the black market anymore. I have about decided to start playing the extreme straight. I am not sure yet, but I am giving it some thought. The choice is between a rule that is easy to see and hard to follow; I. E. Absolute honesty, and a rule that is harder to see and easier to follow; I. E. Enlightened self-interest.

December 24, 1963. Had a real hot taxi ride this morning about 8 miles from the defense colony to the airport in about a half an hour. I am drinking tea and waiting for the plane now. Went to see “Space is so Startling” last night. Sent a Merry Christmas telegram to mom and dad. JE

December 24, 1963. From second book. Well, I’m at the Dehli airport and even after a half-hour of reassurances from pop yesterday evening, I still feel skeptical about the sincerity of some statements. I think the hospitality had no strings attached in that sense but there were many times that statements made one day were forgotten the next. It may be just the way of life. I gave my tie to pop, my sword stick to Paul, and the pictures of the Olympic Peninsula to little Paul. The present I enjoyed giving the most was the 10 Rupees I clandestinely palmed to Nandor, the driver.

Flight to Calcutta on Indian Airlines. Altitude 19,500 feet on a Viscount turbojet. I’m sitting next to Mr. O B. Sheroff.  I had the captains map. In Calcutta I finally saw a statement in a touring pamphlet is obviously true: Calcutta is one huge traffic jam. I am going to go on to Rangoon today if this bus ever gets as far as Air France. I gave a rickshaw pole or a rupee for taking me the wrong direction. I left him and got on a bus. I spent my Rupees on two capes and two ties.

The “living”/”existing” here is disgusting to see. Choosing a career in America is difficult but here, choices are: dredging stinking ditches by hand, making mud pies with stinking mud by hand, hauling dried mud pies, selling betel nuts, selling biscuits, pulling a rickshaw, pulling or pushing a loaded wagon, digging ditches or hauling dirt from ditches by hand. [The only part of Calcutta I saw was what I could see from the air landing and taking off and while on the ground being transported between terminals at the airport. I learned it could take at least a day to get into the city of Calcutta from the airport and another day to get back to the airport. I decided I didn’t want to spend that much time in Calcutta traffic jams.] JE

December 24, 1963. From second book. Flight from Calcutta to Rangoon. Union of Burma airways on another turbojet. For our landing in Rangoon we flew over some real wild looking country. Mountains covered with jungle. I’m glad for good airplanes. I had the UBA bus drop me at the YMCA. It is kind of crummy but the mosquito net seems sound. I sent two telegrams this evening, one to mom and one to dad; Merry Christmas to each one. I am lonesome tonight. I don’t think it has anything to do with the date. I think it is just the old “alone in a big city” feeling. I strolled around a pagoda tonight in my bare feet. No use in using their sandals. They are as dirty as the floor. I kind of like the looks of old Buddha. The official exchange rate I got at the airport was 4.5 kyat equals one dollar. I was offered 10 to 1 on the street tonight. I don’t know what I will do yet. This is my first night in a mosquito net. Burma is also poor and dirty. It is less noticeable because the people in rags aren’t milling quite as thickly as in India. Merry Christmas.

December 25, 1963. From second book. The Air France office is closed so I can’t check for mail. At this moment my impatience to get home is stronger than my desire to see more of Burma. My travel in this country is restricted. I have to have permission to leave the city of Rangoon and the so-called “insurgents” in the Shan state are such that I wouldn’t be allowed to travel by train. I see no sense in hopping about by air seeing nothing but the exceptions. I am now sitting in the Blue Skies restaurant waiting for my chicken curry to be prepared. There is an attractive Burmese girl walking around swatting flies. When she smiles at me it somewhat eases the pain of being all alone in a strange city. The clothing here is interesting. Both the men and the women wrap a full width of cotton cloth around their waists. They wear fairly regular white shirts. The only difference I can see is the way they hold their “skirts” up. The men make a not in front and the women seem to fold theirs in some way so as to make it smooth all the way around. They said the curry wasn’t hot but I disagree!!!

It was an interesting but unpleasant day. I was wandering along and a Burmese took my arm. He claimed that I looked just like someone else. We chatted and he offered to wander with me. His name was something like Lamons. We went to the Swedagon Pagoda and I ran into (Jost) George Chan. We all three went to the Rangoon zoo and I saw the white elephant. We then went to Chan’s house. Lemons and I came back into town. All day he gave me advice on money changing but I was suspicious and did not ask for his help. I put him on the spot finally by setting up a rendezvous at “his office” (Supposedly he worked for the USIS). tomorrow. He backed out. According to Bob Naylor, a Marine guard at the embassy, the Burmese intelligence is everywhere. I am content that I played it cool. I think I passed a good test. I just found out there is no black market allowed on Burmese money. JE [In retrospect, I suspect both Lamons and Jost were part of a government sponsored set up looking for a reason to bust me.]

December 25, 1963. Rangoon Burma seems to be a very politically oppressed country. Poverty and stagnation prevail. My Christmas dinner consisted of some almost too hot chicken curry at the Blue Skies restaurant. JE

December 26, 1963. From second book. I am at the S.C. Chan residence in Rangoon Burma. I am with George Chan. He is 16 years old by Chinese count but only 14 ½ by Western count. He’s very interested in photography. He just informed me that it is illegal to mail photos in Burma. We spent the afternoon together, took a bus ride out of town and saw the world peace pagoda and the caves.

George gave me the role of film out of his Rolleiflex .

December 26, 1963. Met George Chan and went to the World Peace Pagoda. Caught the 5:50 flight to Bangkok. Met several nice people on the flight, Judge Smith, a Pan Am man and Jean Smith his wife, who just moved to California. Funds on hand $427. JE

December 27, 1963 Flew on UBA to Bangkok. Cynthia Vasloo and her “father” Aubrey, are sitting by me. I’m not sure I buy the father daughter bit but so what? It looks more like a Lolita deal to me.  Wandered all over Bangkok. This city is really spread out. The city is very modern and amazingly clean for this part of the world. The people like Americans. The pricing system here is incredible. Each person gets just as much as he can by any means out of everyone else. Staying at the YMCA for two dollars a night, including two meals. Changed $10 and now have $417 plus local. JE

December 27, 1963. From second book. In Bangkok. I am spending some time with “Wolf”, a German physics student. We almost had a knockdown drag out with the cab driver from the airport to the YMCA. He wanted 60 baht and he got 30. We made the deal at the airport and he thought he could change it. Were paying 40 baht a night ($2.00) for a room and two meals. I have had a fairly good day. On the way to the tourist office we met Kumloon Tabe, a fellow who works at the ministry of the interior. He took us in his taxi and asked us to have a Thai lunch with him. We did and what we had was sort of like chow mein but it was called: “koa mu dang lae kai dua”. After an afternoon of wandering through Chinatown (gold shops) I and Wolf are enjoying a big plate of papaya for three baht ($.15) each.

December 28, 1963. Got carried away with my shopping. I spent something over $100. I bought three Thai star sapphires and then three more and then two more with two Rubys and six zircon’s. Funds on hand, $290 cash and $10 in bath (Thai money). JE  From second book. I took off on my own this morning. I was looking through a handicraft shop and suddenly I became impetuous. I invested $60 in three stars. (Thai star Sapphires). I hope they are all right. I have about decided to give one of them to Bob Marshall at cost. I am finding the people very nice here. It is difficult to get around because, for a change, the road and street signs are not in English. I think this bartering thing is extraneous to the culture. Yesterday an old guy charged me 12 baht for developing my role of film and today the other people in the shop gave me three baht back. I have really gone hog wild today. I spent $60 in one place.

Went for a big walk in the city at night. Stopped by a big public dance and watched for a few minutes. Met an Irish man, a Dutch man, and a German and was invited for a drink in a nightclub. I danced a couple of dances with one of the hostesses and I am still trying to figure out the deal. On the way back to the Y a gal fell in step alongside me and tried unsuccessfully to drum up some business.

December 29, 1963. Loafed all day except for trip to the jewelers for a free stick pin. JE From second book– did virtually nothing during the day except to go to the first shop of yesterday and get a gold tie in for nothing. It was a small accomplishment. I hope the lesson will do me good. Met an interesting guy tonight who used to work for Northwest Orient Airways. Name is Joe Hazen. He is flying for air America now in Thailand and Laos. Peter and I went nightclubbing tonight. I’m straight with all these hostesses and all the women’s stories now. Tomorrow morning on to Phnom Penh Cambodia and then on to Saigon.

December 30, 1963. Flew to Phnom Penh Cambodia. Met Glen and Gail Barker and took a bus with them to Siem Reap. Checked into the grand Hotel (Slept on the floor). JE From second book: flew to Phnom Penh on UBA. At the Phnom Penh airport, I got in the Cambodia government bus. There was a couple in their going to Angkor Watt. I asked the driver to drop us at the bus depot. We jumped from one bus to the other. The trip was great. Coconut trees, grass houses on stilts, water buffaloes, and a beautiful sunset. Eighty-five degree hot air feels very cool coming through open windows onto perspiration wet skin. I am staying in the grand Hotel, sleeping on the floor of Glen and Vivian Barker’s room.

December 31, 1963. A very fine climax to a good year. I spent the day touring a deserted 12th-century city in the jungle: Angkor Wat. It is fantastic. The most impressive ruins I have ever seen. Helped the new year in with a bottle of Cambodian rice Brandy. I drank a few sips and successfully quit. JE From second book:– Visited Angkor today; Angkor Wat and Angkor Thorn. This one experience makes the trip worthwhile. The temples and the jungle are terrific. Glen and I bought a couple of bottles of rice brandy for 35 rials each. (60 cents). We are going to have a few drinks to help the new year in. Happy new year. I am in the bar talking to three Canadians, a scotch man, a New Zealander, and some Americans.

Advice on Saigon from other travelers:

black-market exchange gains about 15%. Official 73 equals one dollar black-market gets 96.

Taxi meters start at 2.55. Pedicabs cost 30 P’s per hour.

Always bargain with ridiculously low prices.

Eat in the USO, across street from universal grand Hotel. Hotel costs 300 P’s per night with bath.

Get chit books from the servicemen.

Change money in bookstores, not on the street. Watch for sleight-of-hand.

*********Future entries all From second book. *************

January 1, 1964. Eating chow mein in the Kon Yho Ky restaurant in Siem Reap Cambodia. It is very good. Chow mein and an orange pop are costing me $.90 official rate but about $.43 black-market rate. This question of why the Cambodians say they liked Kennedy and the American press says the Cambodians don’t like Kennedy has me puzzled. [I learned later the friction was caused by Time Magazine mis-quoting what the Cambodian head of state said when Kennedy was assassinated.] Tonight at 7:20 PM we all catch the bus to Phnom Penh. I met a German writer today who is heading for Saigon. I’m going to try to look him up when I get there. He is going through the shooting area by bus.

January 2, 1964. Egad! What I start to a new year. Yesterday I rode a bike about 40 K’s, had a flat tire and got laughed at more than ever before. [To be polite I took a sip of river water.] I didn’t sleep more than a half hour of our seven-hour bus trip. Here in Phnom Penh, I tried to sleep on a couple of tables. I have almost been devoured alive by vicious little gnats. After about an hour I gave up and came to this little restaurant. Chinamen all over the place. No one speaks French or English. I got a bit irritated this morning and alienated Dick Bauer by criticizing him in the wrong way at the wrong time. I hope I can repair the damage and communicate today. At times like this I wonder if I am accomplishing anything. I guess I am. I enjoy listening to the Chinese talk and sing the orders to the kitchen. They seem to be a happy bunch at 5 o’clock in the morning.

Hints from fellow travelers about Japan.

See Kyodo and Nara.

Imperial Hotel in Tokyo is interesting.

Big Buddha at Kamakura

good Hotel: Daiichi Hotel Tokyo ¥1300 per night. Also youth hostel

restaurant near Daiichi: about 1 ½ blocks on right or left from hotel along the tracks. Eating room is upstairs ¥100 for spaghetti. About 250 ($.55) for a good meal

Tough ( friend) works at Nakagawa club (one block from Daiichi) Takako’s Yoshizawa gets off at 11:30 PM and lives in Yokohama

Don’t take airport bus to Tokyo for $1.10. Take a city bus at airport-turn right from door and take a bus marked shimbashi  or Ginza for about three cents.

Youth hostel: Out till 11, 12-1230 or after. Climb fence and go through boiler room.

Railway station equals Ike – IKY

Never get into bathwater. Dip and splash.

Roam Shinjuku all night.

Visit Tokyo Tower

Call Don Kenny and or Taichi Nagasaka in Tokyo 351 – 3696 before 10 AM. They are friends of Jim and Art Burke (Aussies).

January 3, 1964. In Saigon. I met Denny Quinn in Phnom Penh. In Saigon I ran into Addison McCarthy from Long Beach California. He has met Danny also. We are doing a bunch of the red tape together. What fun. We are at the presidential area where all of the fighting was. They are really busy rebuilding. Addison is trying to get an exit visa from Vietnam to go back to Cambodia. He entered by bus without a visa. They are really going nuts in this chaotic activity. With my great French “Va t’en” I saved a local fast shuffle artist from my hardened American friend.

January 4, 1964. In Saigon USO trying to call Dave West and Dave Mills from Clinton. Saigon was my first experience in a real G.I. oriented city. [This is still considered a “Police Action” here at the moment with occasional explosions in Saigon.] Little kids were the most disrespectful I have seen anywhere. The city appeared to be a very nice city but at present the streets are dirty and the main industry seems to be prostitution. It has been quite a long time since I had any news from home. In Calcutta I got an Xmas card from Jan Frost but outside of that nothing since Israel.

January 5, 1964 (I think). Flying from Saigon to Hong Kong This trip certainly picked up. I called the stewardess and told her I wanted to talk to someone. We spent practically the rest of the trip chatting in French. She asked me to read a book (The Razor’s Edge) and write to her if I thought I was like Larry in the book: “Le Fil du Rasoir”. Her name is Dang – Tuyet-mai. She seemed like a very nice girl, 22 years old.

On arrival in Hong Kong I had $193 cash and a $50 money order. I like Hong Kong so far. The prices are fabulous. I can buy a box of 20 color slides of Hong Kong for $.60 or maybe even less. The guy started at a dollar US and was still willing to go down from $.60. I am going to try to look up Bill Nash of Nash and Dymock export and import. He is a friend of Tony Venables. No luck. He has moved. Clem long, Frank and I have spent the day together. We bussed around Victoria Island together. We are now playing around pricing radios, cameras, binoculars and so on. Hong Kong is built in a very beautiful setting. Aberdeen is a part of Hong Kong that everyone thinks of. Evening time. Looked in at several bars-hostesses are in order. (Very expensive) at “The world of Susie Wong” bar it costs $50 Hong Kong, ($11.00)to leave the bar and between 100 and $250 for the night. The rickshaw fellows say that the houses are $10, Hong Kong.

January 6, 1964 I was heading for this W. Young Taylor place which was suggested by a sailor last night when I wandered into a real Chinese looking tailor shop. “Charlie” glommed onto me and before I knew it I was at the Percival company. I finally relented and ordered two suits, two extra slacks, a vest, and four shirts after he came down from $35 to about $28 on each suit. The total for all of this is $89 US. He must have charged me eight dollars apiece for the extra slacks. The last few minutes were a real accomplishment for me. I kept saying that I had to go to another shop and he kept knocking a bit more off of the price. I also made it clear that if a good job was done, they might get some mail order business out of the deal. When I went back this evening, I changed the material. After I left earlier I realized they had picked the material for me and so I was a bit suspicious. My “prickly heat bumps” should go away pretty soon. I think they were a result of my bicycle ride in Cambodia. They itch like mad.

Up on the peak tonight I bought 40 color slides for six dollars Hong Kong or $1.05 US. The guy wanted $10 Hong Kong but I knew how much I could get them for downtown. I think I could have pushed him lower but I start feeling like a thief after a certain point. I don’t really want to become too hardened. However I did take the bellboy’s tip away from him this evening when he assumed he could keep it. Coffee was $.60.(H.K.)  He took $.90 and didn’t bother to bring back my $.30 change. ($.06 U.S.) I buzzed and asked for it (I’m learning). It was the principle of the thing.

January 7, 1964. Had first fitting of my suits. Frank and I are going to Macau tonight. I hope it is worth the effort.

January 8, 1964. Macau, Portuguese colony, China. Macau itself is a grubby little island with Portuguese influence. At most however, a “Chinatown” is still a Chinatown, no matter where. It is a three-hour boat trip along the coast, 50 miles southwest of Hong Kong. We just passed by a big new earth dam, said to be the largest in the world. The trip, three hours one way, cost me eight dollars HK, about $1.45 US. The food is quite reasonable three poached on toast for $.28 US.

Back in Hong Kong. I ordered a raincoat this afternoon and tonight I had a pair of shoes made. The raincoat is $15 US and the shoes are $7.37 US. This afternoon I went to the Tiger balm Gardens. This evening, Frank and I went to the 21st Hong Kong products exhibition. I got several cards from local manufacturers. I’m beginning to see some possibilities in the business world. While pricing some umbrellas I got a brainstorm which can be referred to as “on the spot specialties” I. E. Keeping a stock of relatively inexpensive articles such as umbrellas, raincoats and/or hats; articles which would sell well in certain situations. Determine a way to distribute these articles to the right places at the right times, thus employing a sales force at full capacity.

January 9, 1964. Saw Frank off at the airport. He left his projector and a package with me to forward to him. I have been taking cards wherever possible. I hope to establish some worthwhile contacts if nothing else. I may be wrong but I think that I can trust “Sammy” at Percival’s where I’m getting my suits made. I will mark the cards from the exhibition with a “21” for the present. I will just amass cards and addresses. I will start filing when I get home.

January 10, 1964 spent the whole night reading last night. I read the Razor’s Edge, : (“Le Fil du Rasoir”). by Somerset Maugham. My airline hostess friend on Air Vietnam [I think] recommended it to me. Today I rode a rickshaw from the Hilton to the Star ferry. He asked for two Hong Kong dollars. I could have had him for $.50 Hong Kong but instead I paid him one dollar US. (About five dollars Hong Kong) I had a very strange sensation as I sat there watching an old man, very thin, run along ahead pulling me for a few cents. It was silly. I went out of my way to ride with him after I had already successfully brushed him off. I guess the hostess at Air France in Hong Kong was right about our generosity. I personally feel that it is naïveté but I don’t want to change.

Manila, the Philippines. I am standing on a dirt street outside of Manila in the vicinity of the American Memorial. I had little success in getting there. While waiting for the bus, I acquired an audience. Everyone seemed very willing to smile at me. I even thought I saw something extra friendly in the smiles of several girls. Maybe the GIs leave something besides foul language and creepy habits behind.

I just came out of a show (12:30 AM). I saw the Nutty Professor and El Sid, both for about $.21 US. Jerry Lewis was okay. It was, as I expected, simple. El Sid was a perversion of the name. This is funny here in Manila. Everyone is so used to Americans, yet I seem to be the only one around. Tomorrow I am going to go south and visit Pete’s coconut plantation. I met Pete as we were waiting for the plane in Hong Kong. He seemed quite interesting and thus far quite sincerely friendly. I’m now going to wander aimlessly back to the YMCA and see if this is such a terrible town that I get attached.

January 12, 1964, San Pablo city, Philippines. Well well. Part of what I had heard was true anyway. I got “attacked” (approached ) in a matter of speaking by one of the fellows, “Henry”. We drank a cup of coffee and he invited me to his place. I told him no thanks and that I was onto his game. We had a fairly good chat but he didn’t seem as sharp as most homosexuals. Today I came to San Pablo city with Pete. I’m staying in their “house” tonight. I am still a bit curious about the motives but try not to be a cynic.

January 13, 1964.  Up at 5:30 AM. Breakfast and on the way at 6:10. I rode to Manila with Pete’s brother-in-law. With a bachelor of law degree he earns 400 P, ($100) a month. I stopped and talked with Mrs. Geslani. At the airport I happened on to the cottage industry showroom. Mrs. Caridad Heckanova, the sales manager, seemed very eager to establish contact. The Kapiz seashell work struck me as being a very good possibility.  I am now on a DC-6, heading for Taipei, sitting by a gal called Susan, the wife of a military. “Quite young”.

January 14, 1964. Taipei  Keelung, Taiwan. It started raining last night while Jim and Art Burke and I walked around town. It is dreary and rainy today. The cool air however feels very good to me. I have about decided that I will never make a good bargainer. When I know I am being hooked I stand up well but I still hate implying that people are trying to overcharge me. Today I have come to a long awaited conclusion. I decided on a course of action.

  1. My goal in life as it has always been is to achieve the optimum amount of happiness without obscuring the meaning of happiness.
  2. It is merely the means of pursuing this happiness that I have been uncertain of. My secondary goals have been formulated very nebulously as:
  3. earning a decent living.
  4. Making a wife happy.
  5. Serving humanity in something more than a passive existence.

I have found that one or the other of these goals threaten to nullify the others. I. E. A government job offers a good living and/or service for humanity but it sacrifices the kind of family life I want. The best service would be to dedicate my life to humanity but that would sacrifice both of the others. At present I have determined an approach which might (will) satisfy all.

  1. To earn a living I am going into importing and exporting. I may have to work as a clerk for a while but I see a future. When I get established, I can learn languages as I like to do and feel that I am passing my time well.
  2. My family life can be rich in that I can establish a home and also travel. Being independent in business, I can mold my work to fit my family.
  3. My intellectual growth and moral service will be possible by making public speaking a hobby. I may even do some writing. As I travel I will make my presentations more worthwhile.

January 15, 1964 (possibly January 16). Took plane to Tokyo. As I started out of the airport after sitting for an hour I finally saw the Northwest Orient office. There was only one person there but I decided to ask anyway. To my delight, I was told that Bev was in Tokyo. I went to the staff house and we talked until 3:45 AM. We spent the next day together. She had to fly back to Seattle at 9:30 PM so we cut the day short. I ordered a pair of contacts to be picked up Monday.

January 16, 1964. Spent the day in Ginza with JoAnn from Munich, whom I met at the youth hostel. While searching for the hostel, Kousuke Nishibi  and his friend found me and adopted me. This evening (Thursday) evening I went to meet Gloria Keister (Cambodia) and we had the $.75 smorgasbord at the officers club. It was great. The music was terrific also. I took the 11:30 train to Kobe. I read and slept for 11 hours of train clickety-clack. I arrived at Nishimyio city, called “Butch” and went to his home. We walked around Kobe, had tempura  for supper and then went aboard the University of Seven Seas Ship. I met Mrs. Souberg again, also Mrs. Arrowsmith and Lanny. I spent the night at the Kobe YMCA and then headed back for Tokyo.

January 19, 1964. I am sitting with my feet in a Japanese stove. Today I went aboard the University of Seven Seas again, this time with Kousuki and about 50 other students from his language Institute. It is very cold out

January 20, 1964. The heater at the breakfast table was terrific. The charcoal heater in my bed on the floor was really nice. I am now at the USO. I just met John Beck, and Air Force medic this morning. Thank heaven, I received a letter from mom with $100. I feel very fortunate. I am sitting in a coffee shop with Kousuke and one of his girlfriends. He brought me Eiko‘s address with the word that if I don’t write to her he will catch He – –. My fortune from Kamakura was: “I will achieve my desire. I must obey my parents regarding marriage. I must pray to God about health. Be careful naming my baby and be cautious in business or fail.”

I am at the home of Michio. We just went for a ride in his sports car. (Datsun). For dinner, I had Suki Yaki, very good. We went and had a drink in a little local bar. I had hot sake. Not bad.

January 21, 1964 flight from Japan to Hawaii on a JAL DC-eight. Arrived at 9:15 PM on the 20th and spent the night in the airport nursery where I did my laundry. I am leaving Honolulu for Kailua Kona to visit relatives. Round-trip will cost me $35.60.

January 22, 1964 I’m in bed listening to the surf about  60  feet from the beach in a cottage all  by myself. [The cottage is owned by my great uncle Walter Eklund ] The temperature is about 73°. The decision to come was like flipping a coin but this is an example of what making the effort can lead to.

January 24, 1964, Hilo Hawaii. I am at Kenny and Betty Johnston’s home. [Distant relatives] Walter and Grace Eklund and I came from Kona yesterday. We had dinner at the yacht club. (Mahi-mahi)

January 25, 1964 leaving for Honolulu in four hours and then to San Francisco this evening. Yesterday we came back through the volcano area. Standing on the edge of the crater is a good example of why I feel photos are a misrepresentation. [They don’t capture all of what I experienced.]

January 26, 1964. Arriving San Francisco. Spent yesterday talking conservative politics with Sonny and Dorothy Meisner.

January 27, 1964 was met by Dennis Marshall at the airport. He took me to Walnut Creek. Helped Frosts move furniture. Had dinner in Oakland. Stayed at frosts.

January 28, 1964 stayed with Dennis, Terry and Steve. [Dennis’s musical group] Sat in at the Ajax Club on Eddy Street in San Francisco. Driving a 1962 Chevrolet to Seattle for a rental car company.

January 30, 1964. Arrived in Seattle. Parked the rental car on 3rd Ave and went into the Washington State Employment office to sign up and start finding a job.  When I came out after 5 p.m. the car I had driven from San Francisco had been impounded. I had parked before 3:00 p.m. in a “No parking 3 to 6 p.m. zone. I found where it had been towed and convinced them I would bring in the towing fee as soon as I could borrow some money.  They let me take the car.  I turned it in to the Rental car company and hitch hiked to Oak Harbor to borrow money for the towing bill and parking ticket.

February 3, 1964. Encountered an Oak Harbor classmate, Paul Parkinson, who I barely knew, while paying the parking ticket in Seattle. I told him I was looking for work and he suggested I apply with GAB.

February 6, 1964. Interviewed with Bill Cavers at GAB, an insurance adjusting company.  I had no idea what insurance adjusters did. While waiting to hear back from them, I received good advice from Bev Johns.  She knew I wanted a job asap so she said: “Don’t put all your eggs in one basket waiting for GAB.” By March 9, 1964 I had interviewed with eight other potential employers when GAB invited me to San Francisco.

March 10, 1964 Went to San Francisco and was hired by GAB.

March 16, 1964. Started work at GAB in Pasco WA. And moved into a “rented room” at 710 N Francis in Pasco.

March 18, 1964 Went to Columbia Basin Community College with a fellow tenant at 710 N Francis. Met and helped Margaret Showalter hang posters at CBCC. I asked her out for a cup of coffee a couple of days later.

November 28, 1964 Married Margaret Showalter in Pasco.   We are still married today, February 4, 2019.  End of travelogue, for now